Soft pencils. Simple pencils, differences. The Best Colored Pencils for Professionals

A simple pencil is something so familiar that in childhood we drew on wallpaper, at school we made notes in textbooks and drew triangles on geometry. Most people know that this is just a “gray” pencil, those who had drawing in school know a little more about it, artists and representatives of several other professions who use pencils in their work know its real beauty.

A little about simple pencils.
In the usual sense, a simple pencil is graphite in a wooden shell. But it's not that simple. After all " gray pencil"can have different shades, depending on the degree of softness of the lead. The lead consists of graphite with clay: the more graphite, the softer the tone, the more clay, the harder.
The pencils themselves are also different: in a typical wooden shell, collet and solid graphite.

Let's start with wooden ones.
I will describe pencils and other materials that I have and use regularly. Not all of them look like from a shop window, but understand that it is quite real =)
So, a set of pencils "Koh-i-Noor", 12 pcs. The company is familiar to everyone; these pencils are available in any office supply store and you can buy them either in boxes or individually. Their price is quite affordable and accessible.
The pencils are good, but individually you can also buy fake ones with bad wood and lead.
This set seems to be for artists from 8B to 2H, but there is also the same one for drawing, it is dominated by hard pencils.

Set of pencils "DERWENT", 24 pcs. Tones from 9B to 9H, some with 2 pieces of the same type (I’ll write below why this is convenient). In fact, I practically don’t use pencils that are softer than 4B and harder than 4H, since “DERWENT” pencils are already much softer than the same “Koh-i-Noor”, so I don’t even know what to draw, for example, with a 7B pencil, if it so soft that it leaves behind graphite chips.
The pencils are of high quality, sharpen well, and do not break, however, at first you need to get used to their, hmm, smell. However, after two weeks it disappears.

Set of pencils "DALER ROWNEY", 12 pcs. Very soft pencils from 2H to 9B (see below for comparison of markings) in a compact pencil case.

The pencils lie in two rows, so while drawing you need to top row take off

And, of course, Faber Castell. There are no complaints about these pencils, but the increased softness is not inferior to "DERWENT".
We do not have boxed versions for sale, we only have two series of individual ones.
Cheaper series

And recently a slightly more expensive, but very stylish series appeared. The “pimples” are quite voluminous and thanks to them and the triangular shape of the pencil, it is very pleasant to hold and draw with them.

The softness of a pencil can be seen not only by the markings, but also by the color of the head, which matches the tone of the lead.

In addition to these manufacturers, there are many others (such as "Marco", "Constructor", others), which for some reason do not suit me personally, but this is not a reason to ignore them, so you can try everything.
In addition to the sets, I buy the most used pencils from the same company and the same markings as in the box.
I always have two pencils 2B, B, HB, F, H and 2H. This is necessary because when drawing you don’t always need a sharpened pencil, so one pencil, for example, 2H, is sharp, and the second has a blunt, rounded tip. A “blunt tip” is needed when you need to dial in tone without leaving a clear trace of the stroke. This was not taught in art, but, as practice shows, it is very convenient and many artists, masters of a simple pencil, do this.

Collet pencils. They have already been written about a little earlier. I repeat again that they are good in all field conditions or on the road, but in the workplace it is better to draw with wooden ones.
An undeniable advantage of collet pencils is the thickness of the rod, or rather the variety of this thickness.
Crayons come in sizes from 0.5 mm (07, 1.5, etc.)

And up to a very impressive thickness of soft technique rods

Solid graphite pencils. They consist entirely of graphite in a thin shell, so as not to get your hands dirty.
Here I have “Koh-i-Noor” pencils, I don’t see any others on sale. In principle, I use them even less often than collet ones, because they are not very convenient to sharpen and in few places there is a need to draw with the entire thickness of the rod. Another significant disadvantage is that they fight...

A little about labeling.
Let's start with the fact that each company has its own. That is, the marking seems to be standard from 9B to 9H, but, as can be seen in the figure below, the “DALER ROWNEY” NV and the “Koh-i-Noor” NV are two different NVs. That is why, if you need pencils of varying degrees of softness, they should all be taken from the same company, preferably in a set.
"Faber Castell No. 1" is the series that is cheaper.
“Faber Castell No. 2” - with “pimples” (in fact, I don’t have “F” ones, it would just be somewhere like that).

Actually, about the softness and hardness of pencils.
Hard pencils are N-9N. The higher the number, the harder/lighter the pencil.
Soft pencils - B-9B. The higher the number, the softer/darker the pencil.
Hard-soft pencils - HB and F. With HB everything is clear - it’s the average between H and B, but F is a very mysterious marking, it’s the middle tone between HB and N. Either because of its unusualness, or because of the tone, but I use this pencil most often (only “DERWENT” or “FC”, with “Koh-i-Noor” it is very light).
There are also Russian markings “T” - hard, “M” - soft, but I don’t have such pencils.
Well, just to compare

Bottom line - DALER ROWNEY, darkest pencils.
The penultimate line is Loki's "DERWENT-sketch" set, it's a little different from mine (top DW).
Third from the bottom are some Marco pencils. They have the most alternative markings because 6B is darker than 8B and 7B is lighter than HB. That's why I don't have them.

As an example of use - my drawing "Curious Fox"

The lightest tone is snow, it is drawn with an 8H pencil (DW)
Light fur - 4Н (Koh-i-Noor) and 2Н (FC№1)
Mid tones - F (DW and FC#1), H (DW and FC#1), HB (DW), B (FC#1 and FC#2)
Dark (paws, nose, contours of eyes and ears) - 2B (FC#1 and FC#2), 3B (FC#1), 4B (Koh-i-Noor)

Review of erasers -

Graphic work № 1 , recommended for students of engineering graphics, is aimed at mastering the skills of drawing drawing lines, fonts and inscriptions, as well as familiarizing themselves with the basics of working with a compass.
In the process of performing the work, the student must complete the drawing frame, the main lines provided ESKD, drawing font letters and circles represented by various drawing lines.

The work is performed on drawing paper of the format A3 (420×297 mm).
To complete the work you will need pencils with hardness TM, T, 2T, a ruler with a length of at least 300 mm, a protractor, a compass, a square (to perform auxiliary parallel lines) , eraser, pencil sharpener.
The ruler and square should be wooden or plastic (metal ones strongly “cut” the pencil lead, leaving dirt on the drawing).

To perform high-quality graphic work, you must have a set of pencils, which must necessarily include a pencil of medium hardness (TM), hard (T) and very hard (2T). In this case, hard pencils are used to draw thin lines on the drawing and to preliminary sketch the outline of the image, which is subsequently outlined with a medium-hard pencil.
The markings of pencils adopted in different countries are described below.



Designation of pencil hardness

IN different countries ah, the hardness of pencils is marked with various symbols.
In Russia, it is customary to mark pencils with the letters M (soft) and T (hard) or combinations of these letters with numbers and with each other. The numbers before the letter indicate the degree of hardness or softness of the pencil. At the same time, it is intuitively clear that 2M is very soft, M is soft pencil, TM - medium hard pencil (hard-soft), T - hard and 2T - very hard pencil.

There are often imported pencils on sale, for which European or American markings are used.
In the USA, pencils are marked with numbers from 1 to 9 (fractional numbers are also used, for example: 2.5), and the number is usually preceded by a # sign (hash): #1, #2, #2.5, #3, #4, etc. The larger the number (digit) in the marking, the harder the pencil.

European markings for pencils are based on the letters of the Latin alphabet:

  • B (short for blackness)– corresponds to the Russian marking under the letter M (soft);
  • H (from hardness - rigidity)– corresponds to the Russian hardness marking T (hard);
  • F (from fine point - subtlety, tenderness)- a pencil of medium hardness, approximately equivalent to TM. However, the combination of the letters H and B - HB also means the average hardness of the pencil.

European marking provides a combination of letters B and H with numbers (from 2 to 9), while, as in Russian markings, the larger the number, the higher the pencil property corresponding to the letter (softness or hardness). Pencils of medium hardness according to the European marking have the designation H, F, HB or B .
If there is a letter on a pencil
IN with numbers from 2 to 9 (for example: 4V, 9V etc.), then you are dealing with a soft or very soft pencil.
Letter
N with a number from 2 to 9 on a pencil indicates its increased hardness (for example, 2H, 7H, etc.) .

Graphic work assignment №1 and a sample of the completed work are presented in the figure below.
A full-size sample of the work can be opened in a separate browser window by clicking on the picture. After this, it can be downloaded to a computer or printed on a printer for use as an assignment for students.
The task is presented in two versions:

The task is aimed at acquiring and improving the skills of drawing drawing lines and fonts, while their outline must meet the requirements stipulated by the standards ESKD And ESTD.

According to requirements ESKD The sizes of lines and fonts in the drawing must meet the following requirements:

  • main solid thick line(for drawing a frame, title block, outline of a part or node - i.e., the main lines of graphic work) must have a thickness 0.6...0.8 mm; on large drawings this line can reach 1.5 mm in thickness.
  • dashed line (drawing lines of an invisible contour)- performed in thickness 0.3...0.4 mm (i.e. twice as thin as the main thick line). The length of the strokes (4-6 mm) and the distance between adjacent strokes (1-1.5 mm) are standardized GOST 2.303-68;
  • other lines (dash-dotted, wavy, solid thin- to designate axes, extension and dimension lines, section boundaries, etc.)- thickness 0.2 mm (i.e. three times thinner than the main thick solid line).
    Length of strokes in a dash-dotted line (axis designation) should be 15-20 mm, the distance between adjacent strokes is 3 mm.
  • the height of the letters of the fonts must correspond to the ruler allowed by the standard, while the height of lowercase letters and the distance between letters in a line correspond to the size of uppercase (capital) letters.
    Most often in graphic works of the format A4 And A3 type B fonts with an angle of inclination are used 75 degrees, while the height lowercase letters (which should be equal 7/10 height of capital letters, i.e. capital letters), is taken equal 3.5 or 5 mm (accordingly, the height of capital letters is 5 or 7 mm).
  • Letter spacing in the line should be equal 1/5 height of the capital (lowercase) letter, i.e. for the height of the capital letter 5 mm distance between letters in a line - 1 mm, for capital letter height 7 mm- the distance between letters is approximately 1.5 mm .
    When drawing letters, it is important to maintain the same height and slope in the line, as well as the distance between adjacent letters.

An example of a task for completing drawing lines and sheet design
can be downloaded (in Word format)

The list of tasks for the formation of a test portfolio in Engineering Graphics for students of groups M-21 and T-21 (in WORD format) can be downloaded (0.789 MB).



Simple pencils, differences. What is a pencil? This is a kind of instrument that looks like a rod made of writing material (charcoal, graphite, dry paint, etc.). This tool is widely used in writing, drawing and drawing. As a rule, the writing rod is inserted into a comfortable frame. pencils can be colored or “simple”. It’s these “simple” pencils that we’ll talk about today, or rather, what types of graphite pencils exist. The very first object vaguely resembling a pencil was invented in the 13th century. It was a thin silver wire soldered to the handle. This “silver pencil” was stored in a special case. To draw with such a pencil required remarkable skill and skill, because it was impossible to erase what was written. In addition to the “silver pencil”, there was also a “lead” one - it was used for sketches. Around the 14th century, the “Italian pencil” appeared: a rod made of clayey black slate. Later, the rod began to be made from burnt bone powder mixed with vegetable glue. This pencil gave a clear and richly colored line. By the way, writing instruments of this kind are still used by some artists to achieve a certain effect. Graphite pencils became known in the 16th century. Their appearance is very interesting: in the Cumberland area, English shepherds found a certain dark mass in the ground, with which they began to mark their sheep. Since the color of the mass was similar to lead, it was mistaken for metal deposits, but later they began to make thin sharp sticks from it, which were used for drawing. The sticks were soft and often broke, and they also got your hands dirty, so it was necessary to place them in some kind of case. They began to clamp the rod between wooden sticks or pieces of wood, wrap them in thick paper, and tie them with twine. Concerning graphite pencil, which we are used to seeing today, its inventor is considered to be Nicolas Jacques Conte. Conte became the author of the recipe, when graphite was mixed with clay and subjected to high temperature treatment - as a result, the rod was strong and, in addition, this technology made it possible to regulate the hardness of graphite.

Lead hardness The hardness of the lead is indicated on the pencil in letters and numbers. Manufacturers from different countries (Europe, USA and Russia) mark the hardness of pencils differently. Designation of hardness In Russia, the hardness scale looks like this: M - soft; T - hard; soft pencil and draw a thin line similar to the line from a hard pencil. Hatching and drawing Strokes on paper are drawn with a pencil inclined at an angle of about 45° to the plane of the sheet. To make the line thicker, you can rotate the pencil around its axis. Light areas are shaded with a hard pencil. Dark areas are correspondingly soft. It is inconvenient to shade with a very soft pencil, since the lead quickly becomes dull and the fineness of the line is lost. The solution is to either sharpen the point very often, or use a harder pencil. When drawing, gradually move from light areas to dark ones, since it is much easier to darken part of the drawing with a pencil than to make a dark place lighter. Please note that the pencil must be sharpened not with a simple sharpener, but with a knife. The lead should be 5-7mm long, which allows you to tilt the pencil and achieve the desired effect. Graphite pencil lead is a fragile material. Despite the protection of the wooden shell, the pencil requires careful handling. When dropped, the lead inside the pencil breaks into pieces and then crumbles when sharpened, making the pencil unusable. Nuances that you should know when working with pencils For shading, you should use a hard pencil at the very beginning. Those. the driest lines are obtained with a hard pencil. The finished drawing is drawn with a soft pencil to give it richness and expressiveness. A soft pencil leaves dark lines. The more you tilt the pencil, the wider its mark will be. However, with the advent of pencils with thick leads, this need disappears. If you don't know what the final drawing will look like, it is recommended to start with a hard pencil. Hard pencil You can gradually dial in the desired tone. At the very beginning, I myself made the same mistake: I used a pencil that was too soft, which made the drawing dark and incomprehensible. Pencil frames Of course, the classic option is a lead in a wooden frame. But now there are also plastic, lacquered and even paper frames. The lead of these pencils is thick. On the one hand, this is good, but on the other hand, such pencils are easy to break if you put them in your pocket or accidentally drop them. Although there are special pencil cases for carrying pencils (for example, I have a set of KOH-I-NOOR Progresso black graphite pencils - good, solid packaging, like a pencil case).

A simple pencil is something so familiar that in childhood we drew on wallpaper, at school we made notes in textbooks and drew triangles on geometry. Most people know that this is just a “gray” pencil, those who had drawing in school know a little more about it, artists and representatives of several other professions who use pencils in their work know its real beauty.

A little about simple pencils.
In the usual sense, a simple pencil is graphite in a wooden shell. But it's not that simple. After all, a “gray pencil” can have different shades, depending on the degree of softness of the lead. The lead consists of graphite with clay: the more graphite, the softer the tone, the more clay, the harder.
The pencils themselves are also different: in a typical wooden shell, collet and solid graphite.

Let's start with wooden ones.
I will describe pencils and other materials that I have and use regularly. Not all of them look like from a shop window, but understand that it is quite real =)
So, a set of pencils "Koh-i-Noor", 12 pcs. The company is familiar to everyone; these pencils are available in any office supply store and you can buy them either in boxes or individually. Their price is quite affordable and accessible.
The pencils are good, but individually you can also buy fake ones with bad wood and lead.
This set seems to be for artists from 8B to 2H, but there is also the same one for drawing, it is dominated by hard pencils.

Set of pencils "DERWENT", 24 pcs. Tones from 9B to 9H, some with 2 pieces of the same type (I’ll write below why this is convenient). In fact, I practically don’t use pencils that are softer than 4B and harder than 4H, since “DERWENT” pencils are already much softer than the same “Koh-i-Noor”, so I don’t even know what to draw, for example, with a 7B pencil, if it so soft that it leaves behind graphite chips.
The pencils are of high quality, sharpen well, and do not break, however, at first you need to get used to their, hmm, smell. However, after two weeks it disappears.

Set of pencils "DALER ROWNEY", 12 pcs. Very soft pencils from 2H to 9B (see below for comparison of markings) in a compact pencil case.

The pencils lie in two rows, so when drawing you need to remove the top row

And, of course, Faber Castell. There are no complaints about these pencils, but the increased softness is not inferior to "DERWENT".
We do not have boxed versions for sale, we only have two series of individual ones.
Cheaper series

And recently a slightly more expensive, but very stylish series appeared. The “pimples” are quite voluminous and thanks to them and the triangular shape of the pencil, it is very pleasant to hold and draw with them.

The softness of a pencil can be seen not only by the markings, but also by the color of the head, which matches the tone of the lead.

In addition to these manufacturers, there are many others (such as "Marco", "Constructor", others), which for some reason do not suit me personally, but this is not a reason to ignore them, so you can try everything.
In addition to the sets, I buy the most used pencils from the same company and the same markings as in the box.
I always have two pencils 2B, B, HB, F, H and 2H. This is necessary because when drawing you don’t always need a sharpened pencil, so one pencil, for example, 2H, is sharp, and the second has a blunt, rounded tip. A “blunt tip” is needed when you need to dial in tone without leaving a clear trace of the stroke. This was not taught in art, but, as practice shows, it is very convenient and many artists, masters of a simple pencil, do this.

Collet pencils. They have already been written about a little earlier. I repeat again that they are good in all field conditions or on the road, but in the workplace it is better to draw with wooden ones.
An undeniable advantage of collet pencils is the thickness of the rod, or rather the variety of this thickness.
Crayons come in sizes from 0.5 mm (07, 1.5, etc.)

And up to a very impressive thickness of soft technique rods

Solid graphite pencils. They consist entirely of graphite in a thin shell, so as not to get your hands dirty.
Here I have “Koh-i-Noor” pencils, I don’t see any others on sale. In principle, I use them even less often than collet ones, because they are not very convenient to sharpen and in few places there is a need to draw with the entire thickness of the rod. Another significant disadvantage is that they fight...

A little about labeling.
Let's start with the fact that each company has its own. That is, the marking seems to be standard from 9B to 9H, but, as can be seen in the figure below, the “DALER ROWNEY” NV and the “Koh-i-Noor” NV are two different NVs. That is why, if you need pencils of varying degrees of softness, they should all be taken from the same company, preferably in a set.
"Faber Castell No. 1" is the series that is cheaper.
“Faber Castell No. 2” - with “pimples” (in fact, I don’t have “F” ones, it would just be somewhere like that).

Actually, about the softness and hardness of pencils.
Hard pencils are N-9N. The higher the number, the harder/lighter the pencil.
Soft pencils - B-9B. The higher the number, the softer/darker the pencil.
Hard-soft pencils - HB and F. With HB everything is clear - it’s the average between H and B, but F is a very mysterious marking, it’s the middle tone between HB and N. Either because of its unusualness, or because of the tone, but I use this pencil most often (only “DERWENT” or “FC”, with “Koh-i-Noor” it is very light).
There are also Russian markings “T” - hard, “M” - soft, but I don’t have such pencils.
Well, just to compare

Bottom line - DALER ROWNEY, darkest pencils.
The penultimate line is Loki's "DERWENT-sketch" set, it's a little different from mine (top DW).
Third from the bottom are some Marco pencils. They have the most alternative markings because 6B is darker than 8B and 7B is lighter than HB. That's why I don't have them.

As an example of use - my drawing "Curious Fox"

The lightest tone is snow, it is drawn with an 8H pencil (DW)
Light fur - 4Н (Koh-i-Noor) and 2Н (FC№1)
Mid tones - F (DW and FC#1), H (DW and FC#1), HB (DW), B (FC#1 and FC#2)
Dark (paws, nose, contours of eyes and ears) - 2B (FC#1 and FC#2), 3B (FC#1), 4B (Koh-i-Noor)

Review of erasers - "Eraser, knead and others"
Drawing pads

Pencil hardness index and markings

Pencil hardness index- marking graphite pencils for artists, draftsmen and hobbyists. Pencils differ in the hardness of the lead, which is indicated on the pencil and is usually selected according to the paper. The thicker and harder the paper, the harder the graphite lead of the pencil should be. A tip that is too hard will deform the surface of the paper. This is easy to notice when erasing the line with an eraser. The line from a too soft rod will smear when you run a finger or an eraser along it.

Labeling Standards

In Russia, graphite drawing pencils are produced in several degrees of hardness, which is indicated by letters, as well as numbers in front of the letters.

In the USA, pencils are marked with numbers, and in Europe and Russia mnemonic a combination of letters or just one letter.

To navigate these international issues, it is convenient to use the scale hardness correspondence table given below.

Marking the hardness of pencils

Pencil hardness scale

9H 8H 7H 6H 5H 4H 3H 2H H F HB B 2B 3B 4B 5B 6B 7B 8B 9B
The hardest Average The softest

On a Russian-made pencil there are the letters T (hard), TM (hard-soft) and M (soft).

If the pencil is foreign, then the letters are H ( hardness- hardness), B ( blackness- degree of blackness, i.e. softness), HB (hard-soft).

HB, or TM, is a standard pencil for writing and drawing, the most common and in demand.

A number is indicated before the letters, which is an indicator of the degree of hardness of the pencil.

Pencil hardness scale

Let's see how pencils of different degrees of hardness are drawn:

Marking the hardness of pencils

Pencil markings adopted in different countries.

Sometimes such markings are also found.

Faber-Castell in a series of pencils Grip 2001 uses its own markings: 1 = 2B, 2 = B, 2½ = HB, 3 = H, 4 = 2H.

Types of pencils by body shape

Pencils differ in their bodies (their shape):

  • Triangular - triangular shape
  • Hexagonal - hexagonal shape, one of the most common
  • Round - round body, there is also a variety of it - oval shape
  • Bendable (flexible plastic) - flexible pencil(are they more convenient than regular ones - big question, but they are at least original), they are produced by different manufacturers, including Miraculous

Hard graphite pencils

Amazing pencils

  • A pencil with hardness HB and a standard length of 17.5 cm can:
    • draw a line about 56 km long
    • write about 45,000 words;
    • be sharpened 17 times.
  • More than 14 billion pencils are produced in the world every year - from this amount you can lay out a chain that will circle the Earth 62 times!

Review of simple pencils

Photo review of several different options for black lead pencils different hardness. Koh-i-Noor, Hatber, and other manufacturers. Individually and in sets.

The Koh-i-Noor package contains a hodgepodge of pencils, ordered individually, of different hardness and from different manufacturers. The Art format box contains a set of 12 pencils, varying in hardness.

Pencils are individual, all of a high degree of softness, for drawing.

Regular simple pencil, the uniqueness of which lies in the geometric formulas applied to the body. High quality, from Koh-i-Noor. There is the same one with

Each hardness/softness has its own stylus size and body color.

The set is convenient and always relevant for graphic artists, architects, designers, illustrators, artists and comic book creators. For everyone who draws. And for children too.

Pencil profile: triangular. Each pencil has its own body color depending on the degree of hardness.

12B is a very soft and black pencil, like coal. He even writes on his hand.

The higher the softness, the blacker the color of the pencil body, this is very convenient when drawing, you don’t have to look for what is written on the body.

Pencil is a very simple drawing material with which artists begin their creative path. Even any child makes his first lines with a pencil before moving on to more complex material. But the pencil is not so primitive, if you study it in more detail. He is able to help the artist create sketches, various illustrations, drawings and paintings. Pencils have their own types, and it is important for any artist to be able to choose the right material for his work so that the illustration has a presentable appearance. So let's figure it out how to choose a pencil for drawing?

How a pencil works

When a person presses down on a pencil, the lead slides across the paper, and the graphite particles are broken into small particles and become trapped in the fiber of the paper. This creates a line. During the drawing process, the graphite rod wears off, so it is sharpened. The most common method is a special sharpener; you can also use a regular blade. It is important to understand that this method requires special care and preparation to avoid cuts. But thanks to the blade, you can make the desired thickness and shape of graphite.

Types of a simple pencil

The basic definition of a pencil is a graphite rod framed in a wooden or plastic frame. Simple graphite pencil It happens various types. They differ in their degree of rigidity.
Human eyes can distinguish a large number of shades gray, and to be precise -150 tones. Despite this, the artist must have at least three types of simple pencil in his arsenal - hard, medium-soft and soft. With their help it will be possible to create volumetric drawing. Different degrees of rigidity can convey contrast, you just need to skillfully handle them.
You can determine the degree of softness of graphite using the symbols (letters and numbers) that are printed on the frame of the pencil. The scale of hardness and softness have differences. We will look at three types of notation:

Russia

  1. T- solid.
  2. M- soft.
  3. TM– medium softness.

Europe

  1. H- solid.
  2. B- soft.
  3. HB– medium softness.
  4. F– the middle tone, which is defined between H and HB.
  1. #1 (B)- soft.
  2. #2 (HB)– medium softness.
  3. #2½ (F)- average between hard and medium soft.
  4. #3 (H)- solid.
  5. #4 (2H)– very hard.

It is impossible not to take into account such a moment as the manufacturer. Sometimes, even the same softness of pencils from different manufacturers will differ significantly from each other due to their quality.

A palette of shades of a simple pencil

Please note that the softness of pencils can vary significantly. In other words, softness and hardness are divided among themselves by tonality. The designation H is considered the hardest, and B is the softest. It is not surprising if in the store there are entire sets from 9H (the hardest) to 9B (the softest).
The most common and in demand is the pencil marked HB. It has moderate softness and hardness, making it easy to sketch. It can be used to enhance dark areas due to its subtle softness.
To enhance the contrast of the pattern, it is worth purchasing 2B. Artists rarely use very hard pencils, but this is a matter of taste. This type of pencil is more suitable for drawing diagrams or building perspectives for landscapes, because it is almost invisible in the image. It is impossible not to take into account that the greater hardness of the pencil allows you to make a smooth transition on the hair or add a barely noticeable tone without fear of darkening it.

At the beginning of work, it is worth using a hard pencil, especially if you are not sure of the result of the illustration. A soft pencil is designed to work out shadows and highlight the desired lines.

Hatching and shading

Regardless of the softness, you must always remember that the pencil must be sharpened. Strokes and lines are best made with a hard pencil due to the fact that the lead does not quickly become dull, but remains in its pointed form for a long time. Shading is preferable for a soft pencil, but it is better to draw with the side of the lead so that the material is applied evenly.

Features of working with a pencil

Do not forget that pencil lead is a rather fragile thing. Every time a pencil falls on the floor or is hit, its core is damaged or even broken. As a result, it will be inconvenient to draw, because the lead will crumble or fall out of its wooden frame.

Bottom line. The information worth knowing is quite extensive for a beginning artist. But it is very useful, because it will help in creating future masterpieces. Over time, knowledge will automatically suggest which simple pencil is needed in a given situation. The main thing is not to be afraid to experiment

What types of pencils are there? 16.09.2017 21:52

Pencil (Turkic karadaş, “kara” - black, “dash” - stone, literally - black stone) is a tool in the form of a rod made from writing material - coal, graphite, dry paints and the like, used for writing and drawing , drawing. Often, for convenience, the writing core of a pencil is inserted into a special frame.

Types of pencils: graphite, metal, mechanical

In stationery stores there is always huge selection pencils, and it would seem that there is something to choose from... But it turns out there are different pencils: simple, metal, mechanical, graphite, colored, and so on.

Graphite pencils

They are the most common type of pencil, usually in wooden cases. They are made from a mixture of clay and graphite and their hardness (blackness) varies from light gray to black.

Graphite pencils differ in the hardness of the lead, which is usually indicated on the pencil and is designated by the letters M (or B - from the English blackness) - soft and T (or H - from the English hardness) - hard. In addition to the combinations of TM and HB, a standard (hard-soft) pencil is designated by the letter F (from the English fine point). The degree of softness of pencils is indicated by the letter M (soft) or 2M, ZM, etc. A large letter in front of M indicates greater softness of the pencil. Hard pencils are designated by the letter T (hard). 2T is harder than T, 3T is harder than 2T, etc.

Metal pencils

A perpetual pencil is an amazing know-how that can be compared to a perpetual motion machine. Its significant advantage over a regular lead pencil is the fact that it is practically indestructible and does not require sharpening. An infinity pen that writes with metal (this is the second name for an eternal pencil) consists of a metal body and a rod that leaves a trace of tiny metal particles on the paper.

The mark that a metal pencil leaves on paper is almost identical to a “simple” black lead pencil, which can be bought in almost any store. The authors of the invention even managed to obtain different types“hard” and “hard-soft” alloys, which leave marks on paper that differ from each other in saturation. It's like a pencil with the most common hardness HB and, for example, a softer 2B. Thanks to a specially selected alloy, the recipe of which the author keeps secret, the writing tip wears out over a longer period, without loss of brightness, compared to pure lead.

The shade left with a metallic pencil on paper can be more saturated with gray or blue tones. Color saturation depends on the abrasive properties and density of the paper. These properties provide enormous opportunities for various styles writing and drawing.

Mechanical pencils

The definition of a “mechanical pencil” given by GOST sounds like this: it is a hand-held instrument for drawing and writing, in which the lead is fixed and can be replaced.

If you read the history of the appearance of the mechanical pencil, then you have to thank the American Alonso Townsend Cross. He noticed that almost 2/3 of the material that makes up a simple pencil goes to waste when sharpening it. This prompted him to create a metal pencil in 1869. The graphite rod was placed in a metal tube and could be extended to the appropriate length as needed.

History of pencils

Beginning in the 13th century, artists used thin silver wire for drawing, which was soldered to a pen or stored in a case. This type of pencil was called a “silver pencil.” This tool required high level mastery, since it is impossible to erase what he has written. His other characteristic feature was that over time, the gray strokes made with a silver pencil turned brown.

There was also a “lead pencil”, which left a discreet but clear mark and was often used for preparatory sketches of portraits. Drawings made with silver and lead pencil are characterized by a fine line style. For example, Durer used similar pencils.

The so-called “Italian pencil”, which appeared in the 14th century, is also known. It was a rod of clayey black shale. Then they began to make it from burnt bone powder, held together with vegetable glue. This tool allowed you to create an intense and rich line.

Interestingly, artists even now sometimes use silver, lead and Italian pencils when they need to achieve a certain effect.

Simple pencils, differences. What is a pencil? This is a kind of instrument that looks like a rod made of writing material (charcoal, graphite, dry paint, etc.). This tool is widely used in writing, drawing and drawing. As a rule, the writing rod is inserted into a comfortable frame. pencils can be colored or “simple”. It’s these “simple” pencils that we’ll talk about today, or rather, what types of graphite pencils exist. The very first object vaguely resembling a pencil was invented in the 13th century. It was a thin silver wire soldered to the handle. This “silver pencil” was stored in a special case. To draw with such a pencil required remarkable skill and skill, because it was impossible to erase what was written. In addition to the “silver pencil”, there was also a “lead” one - it was used for sketches. Around the 14th century, the “Italian pencil” appeared: a rod made of clayey black slate. Later, the rod began to be made from burnt bone powder mixed with vegetable glue. This pencil gave a clear and richly colored line. By the way, writing instruments of this kind are still used by some artists to achieve a certain effect. Graphite pencils became known in the 16th century. Their appearance is very interesting: in the Cumberland area, English shepherds found a certain dark mass in the ground, with which they began to mark their sheep. Since the color of the mass was similar to lead, it was mistaken for metal deposits, but later they began to make thin sharp sticks from it, which were used for drawing. The sticks were soft and often broke, and they also got your hands dirty, so it was necessary to place them in some kind of case. They began to clamp the rod between wooden sticks or pieces of wood, wrap them in thick paper, and tie them with twine. As for the graphite pencil that we are used to seeing today, Nicola Jacques Conte is considered its inventor. Conte became the author of the recipe, when graphite was mixed with clay and processed high temperature- as a result, the rod was strong and, in addition, this technology made it possible to regulate the hardness of graphite.

Lead hardness The hardness of the lead is indicated on the pencil in letters and numbers. Manufacturers from different countries (Europe, USA and Russia) mark the hardness of pencils differently. Designation of hardness In Russia, the hardness scale looks like this: M - soft; When drawing, gradually move from light areas to dark ones, since it is much easier to darken part of the drawing with a pencil than to make a dark place lighter. Please note that the pencil must be sharpened not with a simple sharpener, but with a knife. The lead should be 5-7mm long, which allows you to tilt the pencil and achieve the desired effect. Graphite pencil lead is a fragile material. Despite the protection of the wooden shell, the pencil requires careful handling. When dropped, the lead inside the pencil breaks into pieces and then crumbles when sharpened, making the pencil unusable. Nuances that you should know when working with pencils For shading, you should use a hard pencil at the very beginning. Those. the driest lines are obtained with a hard pencil. The finished drawing is drawn with a soft pencil to give it richness and expressiveness. A soft pencil leaves dark lines. The more you tilt the pencil, the wider its mark will be. However, with the advent of pencils with thick leads, this need disappears. If you don't know what the final drawing will look like, it is recommended to start with a hard pencil. Using a hard pencil, you can gradually dial in the desired tone. At the very beginning, I myself made the same mistake: I used a pencil that was too soft, which made the drawing dark and incomprehensible. Pencil frames Of course classic version- This is a stylus in a wooden frame. But now there are also plastic, lacquered and even paper frames. The lead of these pencils is thick. On the one hand, this is good, but on the other hand, such pencils are easy to break if you put them in your pocket or accidentally drop them. Although there are special pencil cases for carrying pencils (for example, I have a set of KOH-I-NOOR Progresso black graphite pencils - good, solid packaging, like a pencil case).